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Patagonia Vertical Chaltén Massif


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Rolando Garibotti, Dörte Pietron

The dramatic Chaltén Massif in southern Patagonia, Argentina, is home to some of the most iconic peaks in the world, including Cerro Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre. They offer everything a climber could desire, from excellent quality granite to uniquely wild rime formations. It is one of the world’s ultimate alpine playgrounds, seducing climbers from every corner. These group of peaks offers a wide variety of objectives, from moderate alpine objectives to steep walls, from enjoyable day outings to unrepeated horror-shows.

This book describes every peak and climb in the area. Although this is not the faraway land it once was, the beauty of the peaks, the quality of the rock and the ferocity of the storms remains un- changed, offering climbers the timeless pursuit of real adventures and lasting memories.

The guide was edited by Lindsay Griffin.

About the authors

Rolando Garibotti grew up in Bariloche, Argentina, and first visited the area in 1986, at age 15, when he climbed Aguja Guillaumet. At the time El Chaltén had a single, empty house. Since then he has climbed in the area relentlessly, and resides there during the summer months. His finest ascents in the region include the first complete ascent of the north face of Cerro Fitz Roy in 1996, the first ascent of Cerro Torre from the north in 2005, and the first ascent of the Torre Traverse in 2008.

Dörte Pietron first climbed in the area in 2008. In a short time she climbed Cerro Fitz Roy four times, including the second female team ascent of the peak via the lengthy Afanassieff route, and the third ascent of Ensueño. She climbed Cerro Torre twice, including the first female ascent of the Via dei Ragni. She grew up in Heidelberg, Germany, and received a degree in physics before becoming a mountain guide. She is the head coach of the German Alpine Club’s female young alpinists team.


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